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Confirming the Electric Switch is working

1. There should be a redlight next to the ‘HUB’ label on the bottom-right of the Electric Switch.

   • If there is a red light, as above, it shows that it is communicating and responding correctly.
     

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   • If the light does not turn on and you have not configured the Electric Switch during this testing:

     • To fix this, click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Configure'.
       

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     • Confirm that you want to proceed by pressing 'Configure'.

     • Now click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Ping' and confirm this.

     • The time since last communication should return to near 00:00.

     • The light should now turn red.

   • If the light does not appear and you have configured the Electric Switch during this testing:

     • See this article for re-adding the Electric Switch to your system.

2. If the HUB light on the Electric Switch turns red when you press the heating button, the zone valve should open and the boiler fire.

3. To check the zone valve is working, go to where the zone valves are located, this is normally next to the boiler. A zone valve is a silver metal box attached to a large brass valve in the pipework from the boiler, which has wires going to it. This shuts opens and closes the flow of water around your system based on when there is a call for heat.

   • On the side of the zone valve should be a lever. 

   • When you try to move the lever, if it is:

   • Difficult to move, then there is a problem with the zone valve or the wiring between the Electric Switch and zone valve. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix this.

   • Easy to move, then there is not a problem with the motor on the zone valve, but there is a problem wiring between zone valve and boiler, or a problem with the boiler. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix this. Alternatively, see this article for some common problems with the boiler which may be the cause of the problem.

4. If you have a single Electric Switch, you may have a combination boiler without zone valves.

   • In this case, when the light is green, the boiler should fire.

   • If the boiler does not fire, the boiler may need to be checked that it has power, suitable water pressure and no error codes on the front of the boiler. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix this.

Confirming the Dual Channel Receiver is working

1. Open the door on the Dual Channel Receiver and read from the labels on the inside of the door, which white button control the heating (it is normally the upper button).

2. Press and hold the relevant white button. The light should turn green

1. for a few seconds to confirm that the Dual Channel Receiver is calling for heat

1. .

   • The fact that the boiler controller shows a greenlight, shows that it is communicating and responding correctly.

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   • If the light turns red and you have not configured the Dual Channel Receiver during this testing:

     • To fix this, click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Configure'.

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     • Confirm that you want to proceed by pressing 'Configure'.

     • Now click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Ping' and confirm this.

     • The time since last communication should return to near 00:00.

     • Press the same white button as before and the light should now

1. • • turn greenfor a few seconds. If you have a Single Channel Receiver, the greenlight should appear now

   • If the light turns red and you have configured the Dual Channel Receiver during this testing:

     • See 

1. • • this article for re-adding the Dual

1. • • Channel Receiver to your system.

2. If the light on the Dual Channel Receiver turns green when you press the heating button, the zone valve should open and the boiler fire.

3. To check the zone valve is working, go to where the zone valves are located, this is normally next to the boiler. A zone valve is a silver metal box attached to a large brass valve in the pipework from the boiler, which has wires going to it. This shuts opens and closes the flow of water around your system based on when there is a call for heat.

   • On the side of the zone valve should be a lever. 

   • When you try to move the lever, if it is:

   • Difficult to move, then there is a problem with the zone valve or the wiring between the Dual Channel Receiver and zone valve. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix this.

   • Easy to move, then there is not a problem with the motor on the zone valve, but there is a problem wiring between zone valve and boiler, or a problem with the boiler. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix this.

Confirming the Single Channel Receiver is working

1. The Single Channel Receiver displays a green light when it is calling for heat, and a single red light when it is not.

   1. If the boiler controller shows a greenlight, shows that it is communicating and responding correctly.

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   2. If the light is red and you have not configured the Single Channel Receiver during this testing:

      • To fix this, click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Configure'.

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      • Confirm that you want to proceed by pressing 'Configure'.

      • Now click on the device submenu (•••) and choose 'Ping' and confirm this.

      • The time since last communication should return to near 00:00.

      • Press the same white button as before and the light should now turn green

   3. If the light remains red and you have configured the Single Channel Receiver during this testing:

      • See this article for re-adding the Single Channel Receiver to your system.

2. If the light on the Single Channel Receiver turns green when you press the heating button, the boiler should fire.

   • In this case, when the light is green, the boiler should fire.

   • If the boiler does not fire, the boiler may need to be checked that it has power, suitable water pressure and no error codes on the front of the boiler. You should get a qualified plumber to look at and fix

1. • this

1. • .